Assembly Instructions for the SG-µMD2 Version 1.0 PCB

Version 1.02 (24-Apr-21)

Copyright © 1994-2021
Samuel M. Goldwasser
--- All Rights Reserved ---

For contact info, please see the
Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Email Links Page.


Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted if both of the following conditions are satisfied:
  1. This notice is included in its entirety at the beginning.
  2. There is no charge except to cover the costs of copying.


Table of Contents


Preface

Author and Copyright

Author: Samuel M. Goldwasser

For contact info, please see the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Email Links Page.

Copyright © 1994-2021
All Rights Reserved

Reproduction of this document in whole or in part is permitted if both of the following conditions are satisfied:

1. This notice is included in its entirety at the beginning.
2. There is no charge except to cover the costs of copying.

DISCLAIMER

µMD2 is intended for use in hobbyist, experimental, research, and other applications where a bug in the hardware, firmware, or software, will not have a significant impact on the future of the Universe or anything else. While every effort has been made to avoid this possibility, µMD2 is an on-going development effort. We will not be responsible for any consequences of such bugs including but not limited to damage to the construction crane you picked up on eBay for $1.98 + shipping, financial loss from ending up in the Antarctic when the compass orientation provided by your home-built ring laser gyro was off by 1,536 degrees, or bruising to your pet's ego from any number of causes directly or indirectly related to µMD2. ;-)

Acknowledgment

Thanks to Jan Beck for selecting the Teensy 4.0 and writing and testing initial versions of the firmware and GUI. And for getting me interested in actually getting involved in this project. If anyone had told me six months ago that I'd be writing code in C, MIPS assembly language, and Visual Basic - and enjoying it (sort of) - I would have suggested they were certifiably nuts. ;-) Jan maintains the master GUI source code as well as slightly different versions of the firmware for µMD2 and µMD1 and a development blog on the overall projects.


Introduction

The SG-µMD2 kit of parts includes everything necessary for either a 1 axis or 3 axis µMD2 readout without sensors.

This document provides detailed instructions for assembling the SG-µMD2 PCB Version 1.0. A similar document will be provided when other versions are available. No major changes are anticipated but since some parts may change, it is critical to use the correct manual. Check the marking on the PCB to confirm the version.

All components are through-hole and except as noted, should seat flush on the PCB. They shouldn't be suspended in mid-air swinging in the breeze. :) Unfortunately, due to a minor error, parts are not labeled on the silkscreen for V1.00, so the schematic and SG-µMD2 PCB layout diagram will need to be used to identify parts placement.

A low power soldering iron with narrow tip and thin (e.g., #22 AWG) rosin-core solder will be required. DO NOT even think about attempting this without suitable soldering equipment. It's well worth the investment. A Weller soldering gun or propane torch will not work. :) Rosin core solder is also essential. And while I'm quite confident that you never make mistakes, a means of component removal such as a de-soldering pump (e.g., SoldaPullt™) will be highly desirable. Screwing up component removal can easily ruin the PCB and is not covered under the unlimited limited warranty. :-) The total investment should not exceed $100.

Proper soldering technique will be such that the exposed solder on each pad should be shiny with a concave profile. It should not be a blob and just needs to fill the hole. Solder is not glue. Some excess solder doesn't hurt anything but looks unprofessional. A 10X magnifier may come in handy for inspection. Residual rosin can be cleaned off with isopropyl alcohol or an environmentally-friendly electronic solvent. However, leaving the rosin alone is also acceptable (if ugly).

Total assembly time for a single axis system should be under one hour for someone proficient in fine soldering. Cutting component leads to 1/4 to 3/8 inch before installation will simplify soldering as the long leads won't be poking you in the face. :( :) Then trim flush after soldering.

IMPORTANT: All the resistors are labeled using the standard color as shown below. Normal color vision is required to be able to identify these reliably. Even then, it is sometimes difficult to confirm the values that differ in one band or in poor lighting. And a magnifier may be required to read some markings on these and other components. If in doubt, have someone else assemble the kit or assist you.

For those not familiar with the common resistor color code (Black/0, Blown/1, Red/2, Orange/3, Yellow/4, Green/5, Blue/6, Violet/7, Gray/8, White/9), two of the resistors near the 8 pin UA9637 ICs in the layout diagram are are 680 (blue-gray-brown or 68 with 1 zero) ohms and 330 (33 with 1 zero) ohms. The gold stripe indicates 5 percent tolerance on the value but for the use here, tolerance doesn't matter. (It's possible the resistors you use will have 4 stripes where 3 of them are the value and the 4th is the multiplier, along with one for tolerance. If in doubt confirm the value with a multimeter.) The chart below is from Digikey. (If the link decays, a Web search will readily locate another one.)


Resistor Color Code Chart (from the Digikey Web site)

Schematic for the SG-µMD2 Version 1.0

The schematic for the SG-µMD2 Version 1.0 PCB may be found at SG-µMD2 Version 1.0 Schematic and SG-µMD2 Version 1.2 Schematic. (There no longer is a V1.1.) This includes everything on the board for a three axis homodyne or heterodyne system with the OLED display. The only difference between V1.0 and V1.2 is the color of the signal LEDs and the values for their current limiting resistors, and labeling for the required wire jumpers for the heterodyne signals. (The schematic and PCB version numbers do not necessarily match; these both apply to the V1.00 PCB.)

Printing out the schematic and having it available for reference while assembling the PCB may be helpful.

SG-µMD2 PCB Layout Version 1.0

Refer to the SG-µMD2 board layout below. Clicking on these will bring up higher resolution versions in a single separate tab or window depending on your browser settings:

           

SG-µMD2 V1.0 PCB Layout Diagrams for V1.0 and V1.2 Schematics (Left) and Minimal Single Axis PCB and Three Axis Populated PCB with OLED Display (Right)
(JB1 and JB2 Jumpered for Homodyne Mode; JB3 and JB4 Jumpered for OLED GND on the Left and VCC on the Right)

(All kits going forward will have red and green LEDs for the A and B signals; the original prototype was all boring green. Please pay attention to the values for the current limiting resistors as they differ by more than an order of magnitude for the red and green LEDs to equalize their perceived brightness. Where the signal LEDs are all green, the R3,R8,R13,R18,R23,R28 will be 10K ohms.)

In addition to the resistor color codes and component references, the layout diagram also shows the signal locations for homodyne and heterodyne on the Teensy. Sorry about the silkscreen component references being missing on the actual PCB; this will have to do.

The populated PCB shows all components required for a three axis system with the OLED display. The terminating resistors (near the screw terminal blocks) have not been installed since their value may depend on the specific configuration, and can often be left out. Five pin headers may be substituted for the screw terminal blocks if desired. The signal LEDs shown are all green in the photo, sorry. :)

Step-by-Step "Heathkit™-style" Assembly Instructions for SG-µMD2 PCB Version 1.0

Print out this document so each step can be checked off ( ) as it is completed.

The parts list below assumes populating the SG-µMD2 for 3 channels with the OLED display. So for a single channel system, some parts in this list may not be present and/or there is no need to install those associated with channels 2 and 3 and/or for the OLED.

The OLED display color may be yellow/blue (yellow for first two lines of text with blue for the remaining 6 lines), all blue, or all white. In addition, they may differ slightly in their pinout and mounting hole type/location as follows (viewed with the pins at the top):

There may be other variations. The kits will generally have the Type 1 yellow/blue OLEDs. If you bought a Type 2 OLED, DO NOT drill holes in the SG-µMD2 PCB to make the screws line up as this risks shorting the internal VCC and GND planes, use some insulated wires in place of the screws and Epoxy - or duct tape. ;-) Elongating the holes in the OLED PCB may be accepatable though.

  1. ( ) Confirm that all parts are present and undamaged:

    • ( ) 1x blank SG-µMD2 V1.0 PCB. Confirm the version on the silkscreen near the location of the USB connector. Inspect for plating or other defects.

    • ( ) 1x Teensy 4.0 PCB in antistatic bag.
    • ( ) 1x 28 pin wide DIP socket (may be larger needing trimming).
    • ( ) 2x 14 pin SIP male-male socket strip for Teensy. (Only if Teensy does NOT have pins soldered.)
    • ( ) 1x 3 mm blue LED.
    • ( ) 1x 10 ohm 1/8 W resistor (brown-black-black-gold).
    • ( ) 1x 10K ohm 1/8 W resistor (brown-black-orange-gold).

    • ( ) 3x 5 pin screw terminal block.
    • ( ) 3x UA9637 or UA9639 line receiver (8 pin DIP in foam or tube).
    • ( ) 3x 8 pin DIP socket.
    • ( ) 3x 0.1 µF ceramic capacitor (marked with 104 or 0.1).
    • ( ) 4x 3 mm red LED (3 required, a spare).
    • ( ) 4x 3 mm green LED (3 required, a spare).
    • ( ) 12x 150 ohm 1/8 W resistor (brown-green-brown-gold).
    • ( ) 6x 330 ohm 1/8 W resistor (orange-orange-brown-gold).
    • ( ) 6x 680 ohm 1/8 W resistor (blue-gray-brown-gold).
    • ( ) 3x 1K ohm 1/8 W resistor (brown-black-red-gold).
    • ( ) 1x 10K ohm 1/8 W resistor (brown-black-orange-gold).
    • ( ) 3x 36K ohm 1/8 W resistor (orange-blue-orange-gold).
    • ( ) 1x 40 pin female-male socket strip.
    • ( ) 1x 1 pin male-male socket strip to be cut in pieces for jumper headers (JBx) if desired.

    • ( ) 1x 0.96" 128x64 OLED IIC display in antistatic wrap or bag.
    • ( ) 1x 4 pin SIP male-male socket strip for OLED.
    • ( ) 2x M2*16 screw for OLED mounting.
    • ( ) 2x M2 nut for OLED mounting.

    For a single axis system, approximately 2/3rds of the components in the last block will not be present. And the OLED will not be present, uh, for the system with OLED. :)

    The "Optional" parts identified below can be omitted if that feature is not being implemented. The LEDs especially are not really that useful and with the 10K ohm current limiting resistors, annoying bright. So you may want to at least experiment with higher values of resistors (like 22K or even 47K) to tame them.

  2. ( ) Install R0 (10K ohms) under where the Teensy socket will go.

  3. ( ) Install R31 (10 ohms) under where the Teensy socket will go.

  4. ( ) Trim the large socket if necessary so it has two rows of 14 pins. This is for MPB1, the Teensy 4.0 PCB.

  5. ( ) Carefully insert it in the PCB confirming no bent pins. Rather than flipping a coin :), orient it so the large cutout faces the USB to the left. Then solder two corners and confirm it seats flat, then solder the other pins. Inspect for solder bridges and unsoldered pins.

  6. ( ) Install the 8 pin sockets for U1 (single axis) and U2,U3 (three axes). Note orientation - the cutout goes to the right as viewed in the layout diagram. Solder and inspect for solder bridges and unsoldered pins.

  7. ( ) Install C1 (0.1 µF, single axis) and C2,C3 (three axes). C1,C2,C3 are the oval outlines to right of U1,U2,U3 respectively.

  8. ( ) Install R4,R9 (330 ohms, single axis) and R14,R19,R24,R29 (three axes).

  9. ( ) Install R5,R10 (680 ohms, single axis) and R15,R20,R25,R30 (three axes).

  10. ( ) Install D0 (3 mm blue LED). The anode is the longer lead and goes to the right as viewed in the layout diagram. The flat is the cathode and goes to the left. Cut the leads about 1/10" from the body if the LED can't be inserted to sit flush on the PCB. Take care not to overheat or stress the leads on the LED when soldering. Be as quick as possible.

  11. ( ) Optional signal LEDs:

    • ( ) Install R3 (36K ohms, single axis) and R13,R23 (three axes).
    • ( ) Install R8 (1K ohms, single axis) and R18,R28 (three axes).

    • ( ) Install D1 (3 mm green LED, single axis) and D3,D5 (three axes).
    • ( ) Install D2 (3 mm red LED, single axis) and D4,D6 (three axes).

      The anode is the longer lead and goes to the right as viewed in the layout diagram. The flat is the cathode and goes to the left. Cut the leads about 1/10" from the body if the LED can't be inserted to sit flush on the PCB. Take care not to overheat or stress the leads on the LED when soldering. Be as quick as possible.

  12. ( ) Install J1 (screw terminal block, single axis) and J2,J3 (three axes). Make sure the entrance holes for the wires face away from the PCB! Solder the center pin and confirm they are flat on the PCB, the solder the others. Check for solder bridges and unsoldered pins.

  13. ( ) Install jumper wires (cut resistor leads) at JB1 and JB2 as shown in blue on the layout diagram. This selects the Homodyne signals.

  14. ( ) Carefully inspect for unsoldered pins, solder bridges and other blemishes. Correct as needed. THIS IS ESSENTIAL! It would be bad form to blow the brain due to an errant blob of solder. :(

  15. ( ) Test the Teensy before doing anything to it. If it fails this test, contact me before proceeding.

    • Connect it to a USB port using the USB A to USB Micro B cable. Assuming the µMD2 firmware has been installed, after a second or so, D13, the on-board LED, acts as a heartbeat monitor and should start flashing in some pattern not yet fully determined, but it will be unlike the "Blink" sketch. ;-) Currently it's a short flash ever 0.5 to 1 seconds.

    • It should also be spitting out data via the USB COM port. In the Arduino IDE, go to Tools->Port and select the port that it is plugged into. It should show something like: COM5 "Serial (Teensy)".

    • Go to Tools-Serial Monitor. A window should appear showing data being sent to the COM port. It will be mostly boring but the 6th value should be incrementing by 1, probably at around 1 kHz:

        0 0 0 0 0 18016 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18017 10 124 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18018 8 100000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18019 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18020 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18021 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18022 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18023 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18024 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18025 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18026 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18027 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18028 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18029 20 4099 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
        0 0 0 0 0 18030 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
      

      (Should you care, the 6th and 7th values are the "Low Speed Code" and "Low Speed Data", respectively. 10,124 is the firmware version 1.24; 8,100000 is the sample rate of 1,000 x 100, and 20,4099 specifies 3 homodyne axes + a homodyne multiplier of 4 x 256.)

    Unplug the USB cable.

  16. ( ) Assemble the Teensy 4.0 PCB to the pin or socket strips. There will either be a pair of 14 pin female-male socket strips precut or the male to male pin strip that needs cutting:

    • Female to male socket strips: The male pins slip through the Teensy PCB holes from the top so the female sockets are accessible when Teensy is plugged into the large socket on the SG-µMD2 PCB.

    • Male to male pin strip: The short pins slip through the Teensy PCB from the bottom. (This is what's shown in the photo of the completed SG-µMD2 PCB, above.)

    Solder a single pin near the center and confirm it seats flush, then solder the rest. To assist in alignment, the strips can be inserted in the 28 pin socket taking care not to push any of the individual pins out of position.

  17. ( ) Test the Teensy as above before plugging it into the SG-µMD2 PCB to confirm the soldering hasn't done anything bad. Then unplug the USB cable.

  18. ( ) Carefully plug the Teensy into the 28 pin socket. The USB socket faces off the left side of the PCB as shown in the layout diagram. Make sure all pins are seated and none are hanging off the socket. CAUTION: Make sure all the pins line up with their entry points in the socket to avoid squashing the leaf sprint contacts.

  19. ( ) Reattach the USB cable. The power LED should come on immediately and after a second or so, the Teensy LED should start flashing as before. Unplug the USB cable.

  20. ( ) Plug a UA9637 or UA9639 IC into the U1 position. The dot or cutout should face to the right - these ICs are upside-down compared to the Teensy part labeling as shown in the layout diagram.

  21. ( ) Reattach the USB cable. The power LED and possibly one or both LEDs near U1 (if installed) should come on immediately and after a few seconds, the Teensy LED should start flashing as before.

  22. ( ) (Optional) Here is the nifty bit. ;-) Moisten a finger (doesn't matter which one) and touch the pins on J1. With some practice, it will be possible to make the LEDs near U1 to go on and off as the input to the line receivers cause them to toggle. While the behavior is not really predictable, just the fact that they change indicates the the line receiver is working. Since the UA9637 has some hysteresis, it latches but the slight charge from your electric personality is enough to toggle it. CAUTION: Don't get carried away, these parts can be damaged by static discharges. So, no cat's fur and plastic rods, please. :( ;-) (This will not be possible if the terminating resistors are installed, thus holding off on them for now.)

    If you're wondering how the OLED in the photo, above, can be displaying such large numbers with nothing attached to the inputs, it was done this way except the board was plugged in a USB charger, not a USB port. That must have a lot of ripple relative to my moistened finger, enough to easily trigger the UA9637 even with its hysteresis.

  23. ( ) Start the µMD GUI and select the COM port used to upload the firmware. The graph should start scrolling. But now, if you do the moistened finger thing, it should be possible to get the displacement to change for Axis 1. Once confirmed, unplug the USB cable.

  24. ( ) Repeat the previous 3 steps for axes 2 and 3 (U2/J2 and U3/J3) if desired.

  25. ( ) Heterodyne systems ONLY. Add the following wire jumpers on the bottom of the SG-µMD2 PCB on the Teensy socket as required depending on the number of axes. Use thin insulated wire and take care to avoid solder bridges. The second attachment point for each jumper can be to the appropriate labeled header pad. The following assumes the use of V2.20 or later firmware as the pin assignments have changed:

    Single axis:

    • ( ) Install jumpers for REF: D1 to D0 and D6. (MPB1 socket pins 3 to 2 and 8.)
    • ( ) Install jumpers for MEAS1: D2 to D8 and D9. (MPB1 socket pins 4 to 10 and 11.)

    Three axis:

    • ( ) Install jumpers for MEAS2: D3 to D10 and D11. (MPB1 socket pins 5 to 12 and 13.)
    • ( ) Install jumpers for MEAS3: D4 to D12 and D14. (MPB1 socket pins 6 to 14 and 16.)

    Note: The original design had the heterodyne signals assigned to pins that were the same as homodyne signals. But so far it has not been possible to decipher the control of the ARM Cortex M7 crossbar to put them there, so they never worked and the pins above need to be used for now at least. Thus the duplicate set of signals on the PCB layout diagram. If that gets resolved, the additional jumpers will not be necessary. But pigs will probably fly before that happens since all spare brain cells of the members of the development team have been blown.

  26. ( ) Optional OLED:

    • ( ) Install the 4 pin female-male socket strip for the OLED between JB3 and JB4 and HDR3. If longer, it will need to be trimmed.

    • ( ) Install wire jumpers to select V3.3 and GND for the OLED at JB3 and JB4 depending on which version you have. The outer positions select V3.3/VCC on the left while the inner positions select V3.3/VCC on the right. DO NOT plug in the OLED until correct power connections are confirmed with a DMM:

                        OLED                OLED
                   VCC GND SCL SDK     GND VCC SCL SDK
                          o                   o
                          |
                      JB4 o               JB4 o
                                              |
                          o                   o
      
                          o                   o
                                              |
                      JB3 o               JB3 o
                          |
                          o                   o
      

      CAUTION: DO NOT jumper the middle pins together by accident, that will short V3.3 to GND. :(

    • ( ) If the OLED does not already have a 4 pin header attached, cut off a 4 pin section of male-to-male pin strip and insert it under the OLED with the short side through the OLED PCB just as with the Teensy. Solder one pin, confirm it seats flush, and solder the rest. Inspect for solder bridges and unsoldered pins.

    • ( ) Insert an M2*16 mm screw through each of the bottom holes of the OLED and loosely thread an M2 nut onto each.

    • ( ) Plug the OLED into the 4 pin socket strip. The holes in the PCB are a snug fit for these screws so it should be possible to thread them in without nuts. Set them so the OLED is level and tighten the nuts just snug.

    • ( ) Power up the PCB via the USB cable. After a second or so, the OLED should display something like "µMD2 V1.xx" on the top line and the sequence number on the 3rd line incrementing at the sample rate (probably 1 kHz). These OLEDs can display 8 lines of text; for the version provided in these kits, the top two are yellow while the other 6 are blue. It is NOT a color display.

    • ( ) Using the moistened finger trick :), it should be possible to fool the system into thinking there is activity on each of the installed axes at which point lines will appear on the OLED with the relevant axis ID and count. This can be more fiddly than might be assumed as the Quadrature counting hardware of the Teesny will ignore sequences of A and B that don't make sense.

  27. ( ) (Optional) Install R1,R2.R6,R7 (single axis) and R11,R12,R16,R17,R21,R22,R26,R27 (three axes). The terminating resistors included in the kit are 150 ohms, which is generally satisfactory. However, your specific situation may differ. If in doubt, cut the 40 pin female-male socket strip into pieces and solder them in so other value terminating resistors can be swapped in without desoldering.

Congratulations, you're all set to go. Order that construction crane in need of a controller with free shipping on eBay. ;-)

Reference Voltage for Single Ended Input

Where the input signals are differential with approximately equal average levels and an amplitude more than about 0.5 V, the UA9637 RS422 receivers are all that's needed. This includes Quad-Sin-Cos which will automaigically convert to digital.

But where the input signals are single-ended such as normal TTL or only one polarity of a Quad-Sin-Cos, there are locations on the SG-µMD2 PCB for a reference voltage divider.

           +5V
            o
            |
            \
        R32 /
            \
            /
            |
            +------+-----o Threshold Voltage
            |      |
            \     _|_
        R33 /  C4 ---
            \     _|_
            /      -
           _|_
            -

The threhsold voltage should be selected to be approximately mid-way between the nominal high and low levels. For standard TTL, this would be 1.4 V. The resistor values can be in the 10K range with C4 of 0.5 µF.

Parts List for SG-µMD2 Version 1.0

These are the required parts for up to a 3 axis system. Some parts like the LEDs (along with their associated current limiting resistors) can also be omitted if desired. Refer to the schematic for more details.

 Reference   Type      Part/Value     Function
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    C1     Capacitor     0.1 µF       U1 5V bypass
    C2*    Capacitor     0.1 µF       U2 5V bypass
    C3*    Capacitor     0.1 µF       U3 5V bypass

    J1     Terminal Blk  5 pin        1A/1B/REF/MEAS1 input
    J2*    Terminal Blk  5 pin        2A/2B/MEAS2 input
    J3*    Terminal Blk  5 pin        3A/3B/MEAS3 input

    D0     LED        3 mm HB LED     Blue Power LED

    D1+    LED        3 mm HB LED     1A/REF LED
    D2+    LED        3 mm HB LED     1B/MEAS1 LED
    D3*+   LED        3 mm HB LED     2A/MEAS2 LED
    D4*+   LED        3 mm HB LED     2B/MEAS3 LED
    D5*+   LED        3 mm HB LED     3A LED
    D6*+   LED        3 mm HB LED     3B LED

  MPB1     CPU        Teensy 4.0      Teensy 4.0 soldered to header

  PCB1     PCB        SG-µMD2-PCB     Blank SG-µMD2 V1.0 PCB

    R0     Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   Power LED current limiting

    R1     Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN1 termination
    R2     Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN1 termination
    R3+    Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   1A/REF LED current limiting
    R4     Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   1A/REF 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R5     Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   1A/REF 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R6     Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN2 termination
    R7     Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN2 termination
    R8+    Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   1B/MEAS1 LED current limiting
    R9     Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   1B/MEAS1 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R10    Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   1B/MEAS1 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R11*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN3 termination
    R12*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN3 termination
    R13*+  Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   2A/MEAS2 LED current limiting
    R14*   Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   2A/MEAS2 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R15*   Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   2A/MEAS2 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R16*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN4 termination
    R17*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN4 termination
    R18*+  Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   2B/MEAS3 LED current limiting
    R19*   Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   2B/MEAS3 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R20*   Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   2B/MEAS3 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R21*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN5 termination
    R22*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN5 termination
    R23*+  Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   3A LED current limiting
    R24*   Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   3A 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R25*   Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   3A 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R26*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   IN6 termination
    R27*   Resistor  150 ohm, 1/8 W   ~IN6 termination
    R28*+  Resistor  10K ohm, 1/8 W   3B LED current limiting
    R29*   Resistor  330 ohm, 1/8 W   3B 5V->3.3 V level shift
    R30*   Resistor  680 ohm, 1/8 W   3B 5V->3.3 V level shift

    R31    Resistor  10 ohm, 1/8 W    V3.3 protect

  SKT28    Socket    28 pin, 600 mil  Socket for Teensy 4.0

   SKT8    Socket    8 pin, 300 mil   Socket for IN1/2/REF/MEAS1 line receiver
   SKT8*   Socket    8 pin, 300 mil   Socket for IN3/4/MEAS2/3 line receiver
   SKT8*   Socket    8 pin, 300 mil   Socket for IN5/6 line receiver

  SKT40+   Socket    40 pin, SIP      Socket strip for HDR1,HDR2,JP6

    U1     IC       UA9637 or UA9639  REF/MEAS1 line receiver
    U2*    IC       UA9637 or UA9639  MEAS2/MEAS3 line receiver
    U3*    IC       UA9637 or UA9639  MEAS2/MEAS3 line receiver

"*" denotes parts that can be omitted for a sigle axis system. "+" denotes parts that are not required for µMD2.

Notes:

  1. The only LEDs that is really desirable is Power, D0. And that is blue. The line receiver signal LEDs may be either super bright white or green, my choice. And even with the 10K ohm series resistors limiting current to less than 0.3 mA, they may still be annoyingly bright. ;-) Feel free to substitute LEDs having your preferred decorator colors, modifying the values of the current limiting resistors as needed to equilize brightness.

  2. The 0.1 µF bypass caps do not have reference designators but they are next to pin 1 of U1, U2, and U3.


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